The illiteracy rate in Afghanistan is astoundingly high. This makes mentoring the ANA a very challenging task. Most of the individuals that I work with are able to speak and write in two languages – Pashtun and Dari – yet many of the soldiers in the ANA cannot read or write at all. Many times have I seen formal documents signed only by a thumbprint. Although I do not have any official figures on the literacy rate for the ANA, estimates put it at about 50 percent. One can only imagine how difficult it can be to teach a military force that is 50 percent illiterate.
But, the problem is more pervasive that just the ANA. The soldiers that make up the ANA are, of course, Afghan citizens and so they are a reflection of the literacy rate of the rest of the population – with one marked difference. The ANA is comprised of all males. The literacy rates, and education in general, is much better for men than it is for women. Current estimates of literacy among the Afghan population are 50 to 70 percent for males and 20 to 40 percent for females. Although these figures may be surprising, they are much better than 2001 when the Taliban maintained power over Afghanistan. In 1996 the Taliban regime banned education for females, and the madrassa (mosque school) became the main source of primary and secondary education. At that time less than 50 percent of males and 20 percent of females were able to read and write.
Insofar as education is concerned, progress is being made. Today over six million children are enrolled in school – two million of them being female. In 2001 there were only 700, 000 enrolled in the education system – all male. Today, in southern Afghanistan alone, 4000 schools have been created that employ over 9000 teachers. Of those, 4000 are female. Further, programs are also being created to provide the adult population with literacy training as well. For example, in Kandahar literacy courses are provided for over 5600 adults – 5100 of which are female. Also, universities that were once open in Kabul are re-opening their doors and are offering a variety of programs.
These are direct signs of progress being made in Afghanistan in order to make life better for Afghan citizens. But the battle is not yet over. Although schools continue to be built, in some areas many children simply do not attend for fear of reprisal by the Taliban. And some schools in more outlying regions of the country are simply destroyed by the Taliban shortly after construction. As with most things here, it is something that will take time. Reconstruction projects and capacity building are not something that can be accomplished overnight. Nor can it be successful without adequate security to protect both the infrastructure as well as those who can benefit from it. But this is the unfortunate reality – not only is the war being fought on the frontlines, it is also being waged on the civilian population as well. The unfortunate result is that it is claiming the education of those who will one day lead this country.
This will be my last post for a few weeks as I begin my leave this coming week. It is my turn to take a bit of time off and visit some parts of the world that are a little less risky. My next post will be on the 9th of November. I hope you have a good few weeks and I’ll see you next month.
Friday, October 12, 2007
Friday, October 5, 2007
And the Rocket’s Red Glare
Rocket attacks on KAF are nothing new. In fact they happen on a relatively frequent basis and they eventually become a part of life here that you accept. At first it was something exciting and dangerous. A rocket flies through the sky and lands in some part of the base. After that, the alarm sounds and everyone runs for cover in the bunkers or puts on their protective vests and helmets. But, after a while, they become almost like background noise, a nuisance that we have all become accustomed to. Of course, we continue to seek cover for our own safety but the attacks have lost their novelty.
This week one such rocket attack took place and renewed my concern for attacks on the base. One evening as I was walking across the base and out in the open a rocket was sent in and flew almost directly over my head. The whistling sound of a rocket flying through the air is just like one would see in any Hollywood movie. My first instinct, probably the same as any other person, was to stop and look skyward. For that first half-second you wonder “What is that sound and where is it coming from?”. But once you realize what it is – again like most people – instead of ducking or running for cover, you freeze for just a moment. Unsure exactly where it is coming from gives you little incentive to run and take cover lest you run in the wrong direction. But by that point, it is probably too late anyhow. Then, I heard the distinctive sound of metal crashing into the ground but what was noticeably missing was the sound of an explosion that you suspect would follow. The rocket landed about 100 meters away from where I was standing but fortunately was a dud.
I have no specific knowledge about these rockets, but I would suspect that had the rocket not been a dud and had exploded as it most likely should have done, I still would have been at a safe distance. However, there still remains that uneasy feeling knowing that this one wasn’t one of those attacks where you find out the next day where it landed. This was one where you were an eyewitness to where it landed. It is that gentle reminder that you are no longer at home in Canada but you are in the midst of a fight – where the stakes are real. I won’t deny that it wasn’t a bit of excitement and that it gave me a little rush. Plus, it is now a good war story to pass on to friends back home. But, all excitement and war stories aside, Afghanistan remains a dangerous place and there are those individuals out there just beyond the wire who mean to cause us significant harm. It is a sobering reminder of the reality that we face each day.
I hope that things remain well on the home front. I continue to do well and remain positive about the goals that I am here to accomplish. I see progress being made and that serves as my source of inspiration to think that we can and are making a difference. Also over the past few weeks I have received a few emails from friends as well as complete strangers who pass on their wishes for a safe tour and ask questions about those things which interest them. I thank all of you for your interest and support. As I have said before, it is the support you receive from back home that makes it that much easier to do what you need to do so far from home. And as always, if you have any further questions or comments please send them to me at omltjag@hotmail.com
This week one such rocket attack took place and renewed my concern for attacks on the base. One evening as I was walking across the base and out in the open a rocket was sent in and flew almost directly over my head. The whistling sound of a rocket flying through the air is just like one would see in any Hollywood movie. My first instinct, probably the same as any other person, was to stop and look skyward. For that first half-second you wonder “What is that sound and where is it coming from?”. But once you realize what it is – again like most people – instead of ducking or running for cover, you freeze for just a moment. Unsure exactly where it is coming from gives you little incentive to run and take cover lest you run in the wrong direction. But by that point, it is probably too late anyhow. Then, I heard the distinctive sound of metal crashing into the ground but what was noticeably missing was the sound of an explosion that you suspect would follow. The rocket landed about 100 meters away from where I was standing but fortunately was a dud.
I have no specific knowledge about these rockets, but I would suspect that had the rocket not been a dud and had exploded as it most likely should have done, I still would have been at a safe distance. However, there still remains that uneasy feeling knowing that this one wasn’t one of those attacks where you find out the next day where it landed. This was one where you were an eyewitness to where it landed. It is that gentle reminder that you are no longer at home in Canada but you are in the midst of a fight – where the stakes are real. I won’t deny that it wasn’t a bit of excitement and that it gave me a little rush. Plus, it is now a good war story to pass on to friends back home. But, all excitement and war stories aside, Afghanistan remains a dangerous place and there are those individuals out there just beyond the wire who mean to cause us significant harm. It is a sobering reminder of the reality that we face each day.
I hope that things remain well on the home front. I continue to do well and remain positive about the goals that I am here to accomplish. I see progress being made and that serves as my source of inspiration to think that we can and are making a difference. Also over the past few weeks I have received a few emails from friends as well as complete strangers who pass on their wishes for a safe tour and ask questions about those things which interest them. I thank all of you for your interest and support. As I have said before, it is the support you receive from back home that makes it that much easier to do what you need to do so far from home. And as always, if you have any further questions or comments please send them to me at omltjag@hotmail.com
Friday, September 28, 2007
The Final Trip Home
It all begins with a communications lockdown. All personal communications outside of the camp are forbidden. This is the first sign that something is wrong. After that the rumors begin to circulate. You hope that they are only rumors, but you quickly learn that they are true. The notification process is quickly put into motion. The staff at headquarters here at KAF alerts Ottawa who in turn alerts the rear party. A notification team sets out to inform the next of kin that they have lost a loved one. It is the knock on the door that every family hopes will never happen to them.
Sometimes the media will inform the public that a “NATO soldier” has been killed in Afghanistan, but no names are released until the family has been notified. Meanwhile, the communications lockdown at camp continues in order to prevent the unauthorized release of information. We simply wait until we can speak with our own families once again in order to assure them that we are well.
From there we wait until the word comes to attend the ramp ceremony for the final journey home of the fallen. The timings are only released a few hours in advance for operational security reasons. Then, once it is time, we make our way to the runway to give a final farewell to our fallen comrade. All Canadians at KAF must attend and each nation on the camp will send a small contingent out of respect. In total between 1000 and 1500 soldiers will line the runway.
We stand at attention formed into two groups at both sides of the back of an open aircraft. An armored ambulance pulls up at the end of the line carrying a coffin draped in a Canadian flag. In a landscape that is devoid of color the red maple leaf cuts a stark contrast through its surroundings. KAF is generally a noisy place with the sound of aircraft, generators and vehicles, but at that moment standing on the runway, barely a sound can be heard. The coffin is carefully removed from the ambulance as a padre steps to the microphone and says a few words about the deceased. Then, the coffin is lifted onto the shoulders of eight soldiers and the bagpiper cues up to play “Amazing Grace” as the coffin slowly makes its way between the two formations of soldiers. At this moment we salute and hold there until the coffin has passed by and has been loaded onto the waiting aircraft.
This is our ramp ceremony. It is what we do to honor those who have lost their lives in battle. But we do it for more than just to honor the fallen. Personally, I think it is something that we do for ourselves. We do it because it unites us as one. It is something that makes you feel like you are a part of something that is bigger than yourself. And although taking part in a ramp ceremony to honor a fallen comrade cannot compare to a shared feeling between soldiers who risk their lives for each other on the battlefield, there is a commonality between the two. We are all comrades at arms who, for those few moments, share a mutual respect for one another. There is an unspoken sentiment that exists knowing that the person beside you has made the same sacrifice you have and has volunteered to put him or herself into potential harm’s way in order to accomplish what he or she has set out to do. It is difficult to explain but for those few moments you feel a connection with every individual soldier there despite the fact you do not even know all of them. This moment is something that is personal to those who wear the uniform and can never be completely understood by our families and friends in Canada. It is our private farewell to a fallen friend who has made the ultimate sacrifice. And although I am stealing the motto of an American airborne regiment made famous in the Second World War, in this situation I find it to be fitting - “We stand alone together”.
Sometimes the media will inform the public that a “NATO soldier” has been killed in Afghanistan, but no names are released until the family has been notified. Meanwhile, the communications lockdown at camp continues in order to prevent the unauthorized release of information. We simply wait until we can speak with our own families once again in order to assure them that we are well.
From there we wait until the word comes to attend the ramp ceremony for the final journey home of the fallen. The timings are only released a few hours in advance for operational security reasons. Then, once it is time, we make our way to the runway to give a final farewell to our fallen comrade. All Canadians at KAF must attend and each nation on the camp will send a small contingent out of respect. In total between 1000 and 1500 soldiers will line the runway.
We stand at attention formed into two groups at both sides of the back of an open aircraft. An armored ambulance pulls up at the end of the line carrying a coffin draped in a Canadian flag. In a landscape that is devoid of color the red maple leaf cuts a stark contrast through its surroundings. KAF is generally a noisy place with the sound of aircraft, generators and vehicles, but at that moment standing on the runway, barely a sound can be heard. The coffin is carefully removed from the ambulance as a padre steps to the microphone and says a few words about the deceased. Then, the coffin is lifted onto the shoulders of eight soldiers and the bagpiper cues up to play “Amazing Grace” as the coffin slowly makes its way between the two formations of soldiers. At this moment we salute and hold there until the coffin has passed by and has been loaded onto the waiting aircraft.
This is our ramp ceremony. It is what we do to honor those who have lost their lives in battle. But we do it for more than just to honor the fallen. Personally, I think it is something that we do for ourselves. We do it because it unites us as one. It is something that makes you feel like you are a part of something that is bigger than yourself. And although taking part in a ramp ceremony to honor a fallen comrade cannot compare to a shared feeling between soldiers who risk their lives for each other on the battlefield, there is a commonality between the two. We are all comrades at arms who, for those few moments, share a mutual respect for one another. There is an unspoken sentiment that exists knowing that the person beside you has made the same sacrifice you have and has volunteered to put him or herself into potential harm’s way in order to accomplish what he or she has set out to do. It is difficult to explain but for those few moments you feel a connection with every individual soldier there despite the fact you do not even know all of them. This moment is something that is personal to those who wear the uniform and can never be completely understood by our families and friends in Canada. It is our private farewell to a fallen friend who has made the ultimate sacrifice. And although I am stealing the motto of an American airborne regiment made famous in the Second World War, in this situation I find it to be fitting - “We stand alone together”.
Saturday, September 22, 2007
Bright Lights, Big City
This past week I spent most of my time in Kabul as I had to travel there for my work. It was a chance to get out of KAF for a bit and to also see a bit more of Afghanistan. Flights out of KAF leave on a frequent basis and so getting to another part of the country out of KAF generally isn’t a problem. However, this is probably one of the few places in the world where you cannot board a flight unless you have a gun with you!
Since the aircraft is a military plane and not a regular civilian one that most people are accustomed to, there are several marked differences. Military aircraft such as the one I flew in requires everyone to sit with their backs to the outer wall and facing into the center. There are no individual seats and it is more of a bench seating style. Also, there are very few windows on the aircraft and those that do exist are relatively tiny and really do not offer a chance to peek out and take in some of the scenery.
Given the nature of the threat posed to aircraft in Afghanistan certain precautions must be taken on take off and landing. The pilot is required to maneuver the plane in such a manner that it takes a series of steep dives and inclines as well as a few very sharp bank turns in order to avoid any potential gunfire from below. This can be quite an experience inside the plane and it is a ride that can, in some instances, keep pace with rides at any amusement park. At certain points, your stomach is left a few hundred meters above you while at other times the forces pushing on you during a sharp turn or incline can leave you feeling that you are half your size but double the weight.
As for Kabul itself I had the chance to see a bit of the city from inside a well-protected armored car. It is surrounded by mountains on all sides and the landscape is actually quite beautiful. However, Kabul is a city that looks as one might expect given its past history of decades of conflict. Destroyed and damaged buildings dominate the landscape and any infrastructure that does exist has long since passed its estimated lifespan. The streets are filled with Afghans who sit at their roadside vegetable shops or walk to the plethora of wells in the city to get their daily fill of fresh water. It is clear that poverty is not an isolated problem, but is a way of life.
One of the first things of note is that traffic laws do not seem to have made their way into Afghanistan as of yet. It is each car for itself with vehicles swerving in every direction. This is quite a harrowing experience given the constant threat that exists for suicide bombers said to be riding around the city. Further, the road must be shared not only between cars and other motor vehicles such as motorcycles, but bicycles are also very common as are donkey carts. It is not an unusual sight to see a line of vehicles following a parade of donkey carts as they also negotiate themselves through the chaos. Yet nobody seems to mind.
Many of the military camps are located inside what is referred to as the “Green Zone”, a heavily defended area in the middle of the city that also houses much of the Afghan Government buildings including the Presidential Palace. This is perhaps the most developed portion of the city and one can spot many military and diplomatic personnel from many different nations driving about, albeit still in armored vehicles.
In all, Kabul is a city with much potential that has yet to be realized. Its location in the mountains of Afghanistan provides a beautiful backdrop to the city but much work must yet be done in order for the city itself to match its adjacent natural beauty. Signs of progress are there, but at this point, one must know where to look to find them. Hopefully in due course, we will be able to stand in the middle of the city, take in the view and think “bright future, big city”. But for now, this simply is not the case.
Since the aircraft is a military plane and not a regular civilian one that most people are accustomed to, there are several marked differences. Military aircraft such as the one I flew in requires everyone to sit with their backs to the outer wall and facing into the center. There are no individual seats and it is more of a bench seating style. Also, there are very few windows on the aircraft and those that do exist are relatively tiny and really do not offer a chance to peek out and take in some of the scenery.
Given the nature of the threat posed to aircraft in Afghanistan certain precautions must be taken on take off and landing. The pilot is required to maneuver the plane in such a manner that it takes a series of steep dives and inclines as well as a few very sharp bank turns in order to avoid any potential gunfire from below. This can be quite an experience inside the plane and it is a ride that can, in some instances, keep pace with rides at any amusement park. At certain points, your stomach is left a few hundred meters above you while at other times the forces pushing on you during a sharp turn or incline can leave you feeling that you are half your size but double the weight.
As for Kabul itself I had the chance to see a bit of the city from inside a well-protected armored car. It is surrounded by mountains on all sides and the landscape is actually quite beautiful. However, Kabul is a city that looks as one might expect given its past history of decades of conflict. Destroyed and damaged buildings dominate the landscape and any infrastructure that does exist has long since passed its estimated lifespan. The streets are filled with Afghans who sit at their roadside vegetable shops or walk to the plethora of wells in the city to get their daily fill of fresh water. It is clear that poverty is not an isolated problem, but is a way of life.
One of the first things of note is that traffic laws do not seem to have made their way into Afghanistan as of yet. It is each car for itself with vehicles swerving in every direction. This is quite a harrowing experience given the constant threat that exists for suicide bombers said to be riding around the city. Further, the road must be shared not only between cars and other motor vehicles such as motorcycles, but bicycles are also very common as are donkey carts. It is not an unusual sight to see a line of vehicles following a parade of donkey carts as they also negotiate themselves through the chaos. Yet nobody seems to mind.
Many of the military camps are located inside what is referred to as the “Green Zone”, a heavily defended area in the middle of the city that also houses much of the Afghan Government buildings including the Presidential Palace. This is perhaps the most developed portion of the city and one can spot many military and diplomatic personnel from many different nations driving about, albeit still in armored vehicles.
In all, Kabul is a city with much potential that has yet to be realized. Its location in the mountains of Afghanistan provides a beautiful backdrop to the city but much work must yet be done in order for the city itself to match its adjacent natural beauty. Signs of progress are there, but at this point, one must know where to look to find them. Hopefully in due course, we will be able to stand in the middle of the city, take in the view and think “bright future, big city”. But for now, this simply is not the case.
Friday, September 14, 2007
So what is this Ramadan?
This week was the start of the holy month of Ramadan in Afghanistan and although I do not profess to be an expert, this is my understanding of Ramadan as well as a general overview of the Islamic faith. Ramadan has a significant meaning in Islam, as it is one of the pillars of Islam and Muslims around the world are expected to make certain sacrifices throughout the month. Most well known is that Muslims must fast during the day, but aside from that, they are required to abstain from various temptations and pleasures in order that this deprivation may bring them closer to God. Furthermore, although Muslims are normally expected to pray five times per day throughout the year, during Ramadan, these prayers last much longer and have a much more significant meaning. Finally, although it doesn’t seem to be a necessary requirement, many Muslims will read the entire Koran before the end of Ramadan. Once Ramadan ends, there is a great celebration known as Eid, which has as much significance in Islam as Christmas would for Christians.
As far the Islamic faith in general, Muslims believe that the Prophet Mohammed was born approximately 600 years after Jesus and that not only was he a messenger of God, he was the last messenger of God. According to their religion, God spoke to Mohammed and that these actual words are captured in the Koran (this occurred during the month of Ramadan). The Koran is considered to be an uncorrupted version of God’s word. It is the belief of Muslims that the word of God, passed through previous messengers, including Jesus and Moses, became corrupted and distorted.
Their religion holds that not only should Muslims live according to the word of God as written in the Koran, but that they should emulate the life of Mohammed and live as he himself lived. Many Muslims however, accept that Mohammed lived almost 1400 years ago and that in modern times much of the Prophet’s teachings should be taken figuratively and that they should emulate the life of Mohammed in the context of modern day society. However, there are many Islamic fundamentalists and extremists who believe that to be a true Muslim, one must not view the word of God in a figurative manner, but that one must live exactly as the Prophet did. It is no surprise that many of these extremists also preach anti-Western rhetoric, but many also sadly condone the killing of other Muslims who do not strictly live according to the Koran.
For the most part, Islam is a very peaceful religion and the majority of Muslims do not engage in such extreme practices. However, the unfortunate part is that western media tends to focus on these extremists, giving a very distorted view of Islam. Western society is inundated with extremist concepts such as “jihad” leading to irrational fears about Islam and those who practice it.
As for me, Ramadan means that my work tempo will slow down somewhat as the Afghans will only work for half days. However, this will leave me with plenty of opportunity to advance a few of my more pressing projects in anticipation of the end of Ramadan. I hope that all is well back in Canada and I hope that everyone enjoys the last few days of summer that are left.
As far the Islamic faith in general, Muslims believe that the Prophet Mohammed was born approximately 600 years after Jesus and that not only was he a messenger of God, he was the last messenger of God. According to their religion, God spoke to Mohammed and that these actual words are captured in the Koran (this occurred during the month of Ramadan). The Koran is considered to be an uncorrupted version of God’s word. It is the belief of Muslims that the word of God, passed through previous messengers, including Jesus and Moses, became corrupted and distorted.
Their religion holds that not only should Muslims live according to the word of God as written in the Koran, but that they should emulate the life of Mohammed and live as he himself lived. Many Muslims however, accept that Mohammed lived almost 1400 years ago and that in modern times much of the Prophet’s teachings should be taken figuratively and that they should emulate the life of Mohammed in the context of modern day society. However, there are many Islamic fundamentalists and extremists who believe that to be a true Muslim, one must not view the word of God in a figurative manner, but that one must live exactly as the Prophet did. It is no surprise that many of these extremists also preach anti-Western rhetoric, but many also sadly condone the killing of other Muslims who do not strictly live according to the Koran.
For the most part, Islam is a very peaceful religion and the majority of Muslims do not engage in such extreme practices. However, the unfortunate part is that western media tends to focus on these extremists, giving a very distorted view of Islam. Western society is inundated with extremist concepts such as “jihad” leading to irrational fears about Islam and those who practice it.
As for me, Ramadan means that my work tempo will slow down somewhat as the Afghans will only work for half days. However, this will leave me with plenty of opportunity to advance a few of my more pressing projects in anticipation of the end of Ramadan. I hope that all is well back in Canada and I hope that everyone enjoys the last few days of summer that are left.
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